FLIGHT FROM ALEPPO
Ahmed Mohamad is a shoemaker from Aleppo, Syria. He sits with his newlywed wife, Fatima, on a prairie outside the city in northern Syria. It is late 2012 and the couple have just escaped the government bombing of the Sheikh Masoud neighbourhood of Aleppo they call home. A day earlier, they were huddled on a bathroom floor listening to bombs explode. As he sits on the prairie thinking, Mohamad is grateful for the fact that bathrooms in Aleppo dwellings have strong ceilings. “The night of our trip to the prairie we slept five hours in the bathroom,” says Mohamad. He loses track of the number of bombs that explode throughout the night.
He and his wife were working and living a normal life, but when the war started, the neighbourhood was locked down. Nobody was allowed to enter or leave it. When the explosions begin, they go into the bathroom because the ceilings of bathrooms have better structural integrity and thus provide safer protection against the bombs. What sleep they do get is interrupted by the enduring barrage of rockets targeting the city. As the weary night marches towards dawn, they huddle, and they wait.
In the morning, there is a Suzuki car waiting for the two outside to take them to the prairie where his uncle lives. “The price of the transportation went up five times due to the war circumstances,” says Mohamad. As the car takes off, he looks back at his home. Once the country’s largest metropolitan area and cultural capital, Aleppo would be decimated over the course of the next eight years—a bustling city turned into nothing more than a pile of rubble. This is not on Mohamad’s mind right now. He is anxiously thinking forward and planning the journey to Lebanon, where one of his seven brothers lives. The Mohamads are Kurdish-Syrian, and the country they have lived in their entire lives is no longer safe. Unfortunately, the journey will be even more dangerous, as it takes them south through government-controlled territory.
After three days of tenuous protection with Mohamad’s uncle, the couple decides to take a ten-hour bus trip south to Lebanon. The number of checkpoints he and Fatima have to cross to is staggering. “My wife and I were very scared,” says Mohamad. Regardless of whether each checkpoint is government or opposition controlled, the couple has to receive authorization to continue. At each stop, soldiers enter the bus and look at its occupants. Mohamad describes a terrifying process wherein if they like your face, they let you stay. If the soldiers do not like you or your family name and perceive a military past, they take you out and ask you to do military service. “Unless you put money on their pockets, then they let you board the bus again,” said Mohamad. This is exactly what he and his wife decide to do.
The journey is long and full of trepidation. Mohamad looks out the window and sees the devastated communities along the bus ride—formerly spirited and culturally vibrant towns razed to nothing more than memories of their former eminence. After ten hours, they cross the border into Lebanon and reunite with his brother. Mohamad is relieved but will never be able to return.









